We took a day trip from Antisiranana (about a half hour ride) to Montagne des Francais in order to see the spectacular views of the bay and the Sugarloaf island. Our guide book recommended we also see the 1000 Boabab Park, so we did that, too. It was not worth it. I think in the 8 years since our book was published nothing has been done to the park. Most of the baby Boababs are dead of buried in brush, the paths were nearly impassable, and the suspension bridge was out of order. But the guide still charged full price for the half hour "tour".
The hike up the mountain, on the other hand, was amazing. We climbed the mountain without a guide, which you're probably supposed to have, but we did fine without one, as the paths were well maintained and we could see the bay at all times so it was hard to get lost. And, we could not find an open tourist center anywhere anyway. The hike up the mountain and back took about 5 hours, and it was well worth the climb. Caryl turned over a rock and found a cockroach and a scorpion - what a lovely pair! At the top of the mountain are the remains on Fort Anosiravo, an old French structure. The French had also bored holes in the mountain for easier access - we took advantage of these during our climb.
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