Fes

We took another train from Rabat to Fes, the third largest city, and arguably the second most touristy city after Marrakesh. After our wonderful stay in Essaouira, we decided to try another home stay experience. However, this time it didn't work out as well, so after 2 nights we left and found a more accommodating hotel. The home stay, called Dar Filalia, wasn't terrible, but was uncomfortable. The family was always present, they did not speak English, and they kept trying to talk us into paying for tours or buying carpets (the son had a shop across the street). Their advertisement online was also incorrect - breakfast was not included, and while there was a kitchen, the mother was always in there, so we really couldn't use it much. And while they were nice enough to do our laundry (for a fee of course), it came back wrinkled and smelling like mildew. We started getting a bad vibe off the bat when they moved us to a different room than the one we had booked soon after arrival. There were only two rooms and the other wasn't much different, but they moved us in order to make room for a French couple who payed more (we know because the mother showed us how much they were paying on a copy of their booking reservation). The couple also bought a carpet, so we really couldn't compete. Overall would not recommend, by far the worst place we'd stayed up to that point. Hotel Splendid (downtown) was much nicer, same price range.

Fes itself was very nice, though a bit busy. The streets have signs leading to important locations and cars are not allowed in the Medina, meaning it's safer and less stressful for pedestrians.

Museum Gate:



The tanneries, where men dye, bleach, and treat leather:







The tanneries from the outside:



While walking around we stumbled upon a museum which is also the home of a local artist. He lives in a house that used to be an old palace. It was really interesting to see a location so similar to the major palaces and landmarks being used as a regular home with drying laundry and barking dogs.





Only some of the rooms were open for viewing. They set up two rooms to show how they might have looked in different time periods:







We saw a lot of neat sights just walking around the Medina:



And a garbage truck picking up trash:



A panoramic view of the city:



The Seffarine Square, known for the coppersmiths:



The Quranic library from the 14th century (currently under renovations):



And of course the Fes madrasa:













The Bab Bou Jeloud (blue gate):



View of the famous mosque:



And a nice dinner to end our visit (ready for the wedding scheduled later in the day):

Rabat

Rabat is the capitol of Morocco and the second largest metropolitan area after Casablanca. We took a train from El Jadida to Rabat, our new favorite mode of transportation. We stayed in Rabat for 2 nights.

Fortified wall of the city; Rabat means fortified palace:





After getting into town in the late afternoon we took a walk to watch the sun set over the huge Muslim cemetery. It was quite a site; the vastness of the cemetery is quite impressive.









Gate to the old part of town:



The Medina is well maintained and painted blue and white:





We also went to see the ancient roman ruins of Chellah:



Photo shoot in Chellah:





So many storks!











We also saw the Hassan Tower and Mausoleum of Mohammed V. The tower was supposed to be the tallest minaret in the world, commenced by Sultan Yacoub al-Mansour in 1195. However, when he died four years later, construction stopped with the tower and mosque less than half built. And that's how it stands to this day.





Mausoleum of Mohammed V. He was the Sultan of Morocco when he was exiled by France from 1953-1955. He returned to negotiate the liberation of Morocco in 1956 and later became king:

Azemmour

While staying in El Jadida we took a short train trip to Azemmour, another city that used to be controlled by the Portuguese. We highly recommend the train; quick, clean, bathrooms on board, and about the same price as other modes of transportation. Azemmour is much smaller than El Jadida and even less touristy. It was interesting to see Essaouira, El Jadida, and Azemmour, as all three have a similar coastal feel with ramparts and an old city. However, Essaouira is much more modern, touristy, and well maintained. There's a small fee to enter the walls, which means they are clean, there are garbage cans available, and lots of people meandering around taking photos. El Jadida is less touristy, though probably more so during high season. The ramparts in Azemmour, however, appear almost abandoned. The stairway up to the walls is hidden in the north eastern corner of the city; we had to ask a local to show us the way. The Powder House ruins, the main attraction, are hard to find and boarded up. During our day there, we saw only one other tourist couple who were driving around Morocco in an RV. While it was nice to explore the walls alone in Azemmour, they were overgrown in many places, falling apart in others, and smelly throughout.

Azemmour is also known for its painted walls; local artists decorate the city and also sell art and embroidered blankets. Overall, it was a lovely day trip.

Train station:



Wall:



Art:





















More walls:









Stairway leading to the top of the walls:





Dangerous part:





Powder House: