3-10 Punta Gorda, Belize and Livingston, Guatemala

We took a 3.5 hour bus ride from Dangriga to Punta Gorda, a small town on the shore. We spent two nights there, and took some time to explore the town.

Punta Gorda:



We stayed at Tates Guesthouse. We recommend it:





We then took an uneventful boat ride across the border to Livingston, Guatemala.

While we were waiting for our ferry to Guatemala, Caryl and I joked about a dilapidated boat that was listing to one side, hoping it would not be our ride. I casually took a picture, and thought little more about it. After 45 minutes we arrived in Livingston, excited to meet up with Caryls friend from his previous voyage around the world, Francois, and his wife, Angela. We settled in to our hotel, kayaked, and waited for our friends.

The next day our host, Stewart, told us an incredible story about how a boat, the Alba, had been abandoned by drug trafficers in the middle of the night right out back, and how the coast guard had been investigating it. The next day, after a storm and strong winds, the boat sank. The day after that, three men worked for hours trying to bring it back up, and when we returned later that day, it was gone. Well, while looking through my pictures getting ready for this post, I realized that that dilapidated boat we had made fun of at the Belizian port was none other than the Alba. Stewart believes it may belong to an American, working for Apple in NYC. What a strange world.

Here is the Alba in Belize:



Here it is, sunken behind our hotel:



And here it is once more, brought back up before it mysteriously disappeared:



Now, a little about Casa Nostra, our hotel, and the best rated restaurant in town. It is run by a former American banker, who abandoned his soul crushing job and emigrated to Livingston. He has been our best host by far. He is very knowledgeable, friendly, and a wonderful cook. Every dish is crafted with care to perfection. We cannot recommend it highly enough. He even came looking for us when we went kayaking for a day, and dragged us back to shore once he saw us in our sorry state. The winds had picked up, and after 4plus hours, Caryl and I were unable to fight the waves any longer. Stewart was a blessing. And after saving us, he baked us an incredible pizza. With local beer, of course. Did I mention he has a pet parrot AND a kitten. We stayed here a total of 4 nights and are only leaving because we should really see Tikal before Francois and Angela need to leave us.

The front of the hotel:



Out back:



And a small sample of the food:



In Livingston, there are a few wonderful things to see. We went twice to Siete Altares, lovely waterfalls that end in a swimming hole after a nice walk along the beach:









And, of course, lots to see around town:

More birds:



And birds on boats:





Fish drying in the sun:





Everyone loves clean laundry:



Caryl and Francois enjoying a nice breeze:



A few more:

3-4 Tulum and Bacalar, Mexico, then Dangriga, Belize

The third (and last, for now) Maya ruin on our list was Tulum, located on the shore. We spent some time comparing the three - Caryl and I have decided that overall, we enjoyed Coba the best, though each has its charm. Chichen Itza is by far the largest, the best maintained, and most impressive. However, it was overrun by souvenir stands and we were not allowed to get close to the structures. We liked Tulum because it was right on the ocean, and very idyllic and picturesque. The town of Tulum was also pretty fun - a nice, small, and lively hippie town. However, the Tulum ruins were mobbed with tourists, and it was so hot without any shade, even compared to the other two. Coba was a lot of fun, between the jungle bike ride and the climb to the top, we just had a really nice time. Maybe not as extensive as Chichen Itza, but still very impressive. Overall, we're really glad we saw all three, as they are all very unique.

We had dinner at a Thai restaurant in Tulum!



Caryl at the entrance:



Some pictures from the ruins:









Later that same day we took a bus to Bacalar, Pueblo Magico, close to the border with Belize. We spent two nights in a cabana on the shore of a uniquely sand-bottomed, turquoise-colored, fresh water lagoon.

View from our hotel:



Bacalar fort:





Black birds we have seen all over Mexico:



Another grilled chicken dinner:





Bacalar shore:





We then took a 3.5km walk in the blazing hot sun to the Cenote Azul (aka blue sinkhole). Still not sure it was worth it - took a cab back!

Cenote:



Close-up of the drop-off:



Caryl enjoying a beer by the Cenote:



Strange bird at the Cenote:



Since Caryl has become an avid birdwatcher (who would have guessed!) here is another - a hawk outside our cabana:



Yesterday was a long travel day - we took 3 busses to get from Bacalar across the border and then down to Dangriga, Belize. We found some more cute cabanas right on the shore. Caryl says they are shabby chic, minus the chic. I agree. Ruthie, the owner, is very sweet - she has owned the property for 30 years, and built the cabanas 10 years ago. She also has a few dogs - so far she has introduced us to Blackie and Brownie. They are good dogs.

The cabana:





Beach just outside:



Caryl and Blackie:



The bird watching here is incredible:







And the bus we rode in on: